![]() Panasonic's V-Log L profile requires 10-bit recording to produce a high quality image, so many of these YouTube negative comments are from people using GH4 cameras and trying to record V-Log L in 8-bit format, which does not work well at all.įor the "Travel Feels" link that you posted, this guy has no clue about how to properly expose or grade V-Log L footage. I have seen a lot of YouTube videos where they make a very strong case to NOT use V-Log, you might search and watch for yourself, but the examples are bad. This will save you a lot of work in the final edit. Most importantly try to get exposure and white balance right at the time of the shoot. You just tick a box to have the proxy files created, then edit and export normally. I don't use Premiere Pro, so can't give you any technical help on it but on FCPX it is really simple to do and virtually transparent. When you export your movie these all get applied to the original files. Have you tried using proxy files? This method allows you to edit normally using a reduced resolution clip to which you apply all LUTs, edits and effects. If you do decide to use V-log L and your computer cannot run your video with LUT at the correct speed it will be very difficult and frustrating to edit. It doesn't have to involve Log gammas, LUTs and other complications you should be able to get a picture you like out of the camera's basic photo styles, maybe with a little mild tweaking of the parameters. ![]() The internet is full of advice on this subject - how do you tell good from bad? I say experiment to find out what you like. My main target right now is preparing for a vacation at Yellowstone, so that's what I really need help to decide - advice most welcome! This is so difficult, and I'm worried if I form an opinion in one scene it'll probably be invalidated as soon as I change scene. I made some test shots over the weekend but screwed up by not recording which were CIneD versus CineV so that wasn't helpful, and I see no way to check which mode was shot on the camera from looking at the properties of the files - or is there some way to tell?Īnyway, I'm not entirely sure I don't like the LIke709 look instead. I think I understand this correctly that using V-LogL is the only way to get 12-bits of dynamic range, but given I've constrained my target to 8b (because I want 4K/60 internal recording) I have to trade between dynamic range and banding, and that's a tough situation that may make the other modes better. However, there were also a number of examples - particularly with clouds or bright sunrise/sunset images where the banding was so objectionable as to cancel any value the extra bits of dynamic range was adding. I searched YouTube for a while and found a few examples where they showed V-LogL with the 709LUT versus CIneD, I would say in a number of cases the V-LogL+LUT looked better. I'm curious about the reason why you use CineLike-V rather than say "D" or 709? ![]() Would love to hear thoughts and experiences on this option. Also, from an editing perspective, I used Adobe Premiere Pro CS6, not the latest CC, so while I tried Magic Bullet's LUT buddy to help with the V-LogL it doesn't run at real time speed, so I'm worried that V-LogL is unusable from an editing perspective - although I would love to hear otherwise if VLog is even useful at 8bit. I've decided I so much prefer the look of 4K/60fps versus 24 or 30, that that decision is made, and I'm not using an external recorder, so I'm locked into 4K/60/8bit versus 10-bit as a starting point. I'm going to Yellowstone national park later this summer and looking to really understand the difference between these four modes in the Photo Style setting for video - I'm only going to be using the GH5 for video. ![]() I've got the V-Log L upgrade, so I'm now having to choose between these four gamma curves for video recording. I've read the advanced manual for the GH5, page 208 - with the two line description of each (Photo Style), but I'm looking for a little more advice.
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